Arborist Rope for Climbing and Rigging

Buying guide

Climbing rope versus rigging rope

Climbing rope is life-support gear. It is built for consistent handling with friction hitches and mechanical devices, low stretch for efficient ascents, and strength well above body-weight loads. Arborist climbing lines typically run from about 11 mm to 13 mm, and the climbing system you use determines what will work.

Rigging rope is made to absorb and control the shock of lowering wood. It is usually larger, commonly 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch, with high strength and some stretch to soften dynamic loads. Never use a rigging line as a climbing line, and retire any climbing line that has been used for rigging.

Climbing rope and rigging rope also look and handle differently. Many crews choose bright, distinctive colors for climbing lines and solid colors for rigging lines, so nobody grabs the wrong rope from the truck. Label rope bags clearly and store the two types apart.

Rope construction

Sixteen-strand ropes have a tough, thick cover over a lightly twisted core. They are proven, durable and grip well with traditional friction hitches like the Blake's hitch. Twenty-four strand and other modern constructions use a tighter, rounder cover that runs smoothly through mechanical devices and hitches, and many are popular for stationary rope systems.

Static and low-stretch kernmantle ropes have little elongation, which suits SRS ascents and devices built around specific diameters. Always check that your rope is listed as compatible in your device's instructions.

Picking the right diameter and length

Your diameter is set by your hitch cord and devices. Too thin and a hitch may not grab; too thick and it will drag. Length depends on the trees you climb: you need at least twice the height of your highest tie-in point for a doubled rope technique, plus extra for redirects and safety. Many climbers buy 150 or 200 feet and cut shorter lines from worn rope as it ages.

For rigging rope, diameter and strength depend on the loads you lower. Size up when in doubt and plan cuts to limit shock loading.

If you are buying from a rope store or rope supply for the first time, start with one climbing line and one rigging line, a few lengths of hitch cord and a chafe sleeve. Add specialized ropes like static lines for SRS as your system grows.

Care, inspection and retirement

Inspect rope before each climb: run it through your hands looking for cuts, glazing, flat or stiff spots, core damage and contamination. Keep it out of the saw's path, away from fuel and chemicals, and store it clean and dry in a rope bag. Follow ANSI Z133 and the manufacturer's instructions for life-support rope, and retire it when in doubt. A climbing line costs less than a fall.

Splicing tools, chafe sleeves and hitch cord are part of a rope kit, too. A chafe sleeve protects a rope where it passes over bark or edges, and good hitch cord matched to your line keeps your system working smoothly.

Keep a simple log for each life-support rope: date in service, inspections and any events like a shock load or saw contact. That record makes retirement decisions easier and helps if anyone ever asks how your gear is managed.