Choosing a Rope Puller for Tree Felling

What a rope puller does in tree felling

A rope puller for tree felling puts steady, controlled tension on a pull line tied high in the tree. Used with a proper notch and hinge, that tension helps a tree go where you planned: it can take out some back lean, keep a tree from sitting back on the bar, and give you a margin of control when the target area is tight.

It is not a way to drag a tree against heavy lean or to fix a bad notch. The hinge still steers the tree. The puller adds force in the felling direction, and it lets one person on the ground apply that force in small, measured increments instead of guessing with a team pulling by hand.

Rope pullers, rope come alongs, endless rope winches and lever pullers are names for closely related tools. This guide covers how they differ and how to pick one that fits your work.

Endless rope pullers vs cable come alongs

An endless or continuous rope puller grips the rope itself with a pair of jaws. Each stroke of the lever pulls the rope through, and the jaws hold it between strokes. Because it is not winding rope onto a drum, the pull length is limited only by the length of rope you have. The Maasdam continuous rope puller is the best-known example in tree work.

A cable come along winds steel cable onto a small drum. It is strong and compact, but the cable is short, so on a long pull you have to stop, re-rig and start again, which is the last thing you want with a tree half cut. That is why most arborists use a rope come along instead.

Whichever you use, check the rated capacity and the rope type and diameter the maker approves. A puller that slips on the wrong rope, or a rope that is weaker than the pull, turns a controlled job into an uncontrolled one.

Pulley systems and mechanical advantage

A pulley system multiplies the force a person can put on the line. Fiddle block sets are a fast way to rig a simple mechanical advantage for pulling or tensioning, and a progress-capture pulley or rope grab lets you hold what you gain between pulls. Our mechanical advantage section has fiddle block sets and pulleys sized for rigging.

Real-world mechanical advantage is always lower than the theoretical number because of friction at each pulley and bend. Use rigging pulleys rather than carabiners at change-of-direction points, and keep the system simple enough that anyone on the crew can see how it is rigged.

Winches for pulling and tensioning

Some lowering devices include a winch. The Good Rigging Control System (GRCS) is a trunk-mounted capstan with a winch that crews use for lowering, lifting and tensioning a pull line. If you already rig with a GRCS, it can double as a felling puller, anchored to a sound tree in the right direction.

Portable gas capstan winches are another option for heavy, repeated pulls. They are fast but need training, and the operator must be able to stop and hold the load at any moment. Pulling with a truck is a common cause of accidents because the driver cannot feel the tension and the load can change suddenly, so a hand-operated puller or a winch with a dedicated operator is the safer choice.

Rope, anchors and rope length

Use a low-stretch rigging rope for pulling. Stretchy rope stores energy and wastes your pulls. A double-braid line such as Samson Stable Braid is a common choice. Check the rope's strength, condition and the diameter range your puller accepts.

Run enough rope that the puller and the person working it sit well outside the fall zone. Many crews plan for a pull line at least one and a half to two times the height of the tree. Anchor the puller to a sound tree or other solid anchor with a rated sling, such as a whoopie or soft anchor sling, and tie the pull line as high in the tree as you safely can for better leverage.

Setting up a pull safely

Plan the fall, clear the area, cut the notch and agree on signals before anyone touches the puller. Most crews take up slack and set a moderate tension before the back cut, then add tension on the faller's call as the hinge forms. Over-tensioning before the cut can split the trunk or pull the tree before the hinge is ready.

Never stand in the bight of the rope or in line with a tensioned rope, which can snap back if something fails. Communication between the faller and the puller operator is everything. Learn these techniques from a qualified trainer, and follow ANSI Z133 and your company's procedures.

• Plan the felling direction and escape routes
• Anchor the puller outside the fall zone
• Take up slack and set light tension before the back cut
• Add tension only on the faller's call
• Stay out of the bight and out of line with the rope

How to choose a rope puller

For most tree services, a quality continuous rope puller, a dedicated length of low-stretch rigging rope, and a couple of anchor slings cover nearly every pull. Crews that already run a GRCS or a pulley system can use those for tensioning too.

Compare rated capacity, the rope diameters it accepts, handle length, weight on the carry, and whether replacement parts such as a replacement handle are easy to find. Keep the jaws clean and inspect the puller and rope before each job.

Common questions

What is an endless rope puller?

A lever tool that grips the rope with jaws and pulls it through with each stroke. Because it does not wind rope onto a drum, the pull length is limited only by the rope you have.

Can I use a cable come along to fell a tree?

It can work for short pulls, but the short cable often means re-rigging mid-pull. Most arborists prefer a rope puller for felling.

How long should a pull line be?

Long enough that the puller and its operator are well outside the fall zone. Many crews plan for at least one and a half to two times the tree's height.

Is the GRCS a winch?

The GRCS is a lowering device with a built-in capstan winch, so crews also use it for lifting and tensioning a pull line.