Independent arborist gear picks · Typical prices shown, checked at the retailer

Representative photo for Silky Hayauchi 390mm Replacement Blade Replacement Blades

Representative photo. Check the retailer listing for the exact model, color and size.
Photo: Project 365 #211: 300718 A Cut Above by comedy_nose, CC BY 2.0

Silky

Silky Hayauchi Replacement Blade, 390mm

A fresh 390mm curved blade to put a tired Hayauchi pole saw back on the job.

$69 Typical price. Retail prices change, so check today's price before you buy.
Check price at retailer ↗
  • 390mm (about 15.4 in) curved pull-stroke blade
  • Made for the Silky Hayauchi pole saw
  • Hardened teeth that are meant to be replaced, not filed
  • Curve keeps the teeth biting on overhead cuts
  • Bolt-on swap with the saw's own hardware

PruningGroundMaintenance

The Silky Hayauchi replacement blade is the 390mm curved saw blade that bolts onto the Hayauchi telescoping pole saw. When the teeth go dull, a tooth chips on a hidden nail or the blade takes a kink, a new blade brings the saw back to how it cut on day one.

Why crews keep a spare Hayauchi blade

The Hayauchi is the pole saw a lot of crews reach for when they need reach without a powered pole pruner: clearance pruning over sidewalks, lifting canopies over driveways, cleaning deadwood out of a lower crown from the ground. The pole does the reaching, but the blade does the work, and the 390mm blade is the part that wears out.

Silky hardens its teeth so they stay sharp a long time, which is great until they are finally done. Hardened teeth are not something you touch up with a file in the truck. Once the saw starts skating instead of biting, or you feel it bind and drift in a cut it used to rip through, it is time for a new blade. A spare in the truck turns a dead saw into a two-minute fix.

What the 390mm curve does on the job

The curve matters on a pole saw. When you are pulling down and back on a limb above your head, a straight blade tends to ride out of the kerf. The Hayauchi's curved blade keeps the teeth pulled into the wood, so each stroke takes a full bite with less wasted effort and less wobble at the top of a long pole.

At 390mm the blade handles the limbs you would normally take with a pole saw, from small suckers to wrist-thick laterals, with enough length for a long, efficient stroke. For bigger wood, make a small undercut first so the limb does not tear bark down the stem, then finish from the top. Keep yourself and anyone else out from under the drop zone, and never use any pole tool near energized lines unless you are a qualified line-clearance arborist with the right equipment.

Pole saw cuts reward patience. Let the teeth do the work with long, smooth strokes rather than short, hard jabs, which wear the blade faster and shake the pole.

Swapping the blade

Lay the saw down on a flat surface with the blade fully closed out of the way of your hands. Remove the blade bolt and nut from the head, lift the old blade off, set the new one in the same orientation and snug the hardware back down. Check that the blade sits fully seated and does not rock before you extend the pole.

Wear gloves while you handle the bare blade, the teeth are sharp enough to open a hand in one careless move. Wrap the old blade in tape or cardboard before it goes in the trash so nobody gets cut on the way to the dumpster.

Keeping a new blade cutting longer

Wipe sap off the blade at the end of the day and give it a light coat of oil before it goes back in the scabbard or truck rack. Pitch build-up makes any saw drag. Avoid cutting into the ground, wire, or old hardware buried in the wood; one nail can take out several teeth in a single stroke.

Browse more saw and pole saw blades in our replacement blades section, and make sure the blade you order matches the length of the head on your saw.