Chainsaw Chain

Buying guide

Choosing saw chain

Pitch and gauge must match the bar and sprocket, and the drive-link count must match the bar length. Full-comp chain has a cutter on every other link for the fastest cut; semi-chisel cutters hold an edge longer in dirty wood and are more forgiving to sharpen.

File with the correct round file diameter for your chain and keep the depth gauges set. A dull chain makes dust instead of chips, pulls the saw into the wood and wears the bar.

Sharpening and replacing chain

Touch up the cutters with a few file strokes every tank or two, keeping the same angle and number of strokes on each tooth. Check the depth gauges every few sharpenings; too high and the saw will not bite, too low and it grabs and kicks. A chain is done when the cutters are worn back to the manufacturer's minimum or when teeth are cracked or broken.

Rotating several chains through a sprocket keeps wear even. When a chain hits a rock or nail, swap it out and have it ground rather than trying to fix it with a file on the stump. A sharp chain is the best safety and productivity upgrade most crews can make.