Crosby
Crosby Chain Choker Hook
A choker hook that turns a length of chain into a sliding log choker.
Rings & Hardware
Representative photo. Check the retailer listing for the exact model, color and size.
Photo: Eye Bolt - Basil Watson's Sopwith-Type Biplane, Melbourne, Victoria, 1916 by Photographer: David Thompson, CC BY 4.0
A galvanized pinned connector for chain, cable and hitch work around the yard.
A galvanized clevis is a U-shaped connector closed with a removable pin, used to join chain, cable, rings and hitch points. Around a tree service it shows up on equipment hitches, skidding chains, cable work and anywhere you need a solid, pinned connection.
A clevis is one of the oldest pieces of connecting hardware. The U-shaped body goes around whatever you are connecting, and a pin closes the open end. Unlike a hook, it cannot come unhooked when the load goes slack, and unlike a carabiner, it is built for steel-on-steel work like chain and hitches.
On a tree crew you will see a clevis on the hitch of a log trailer, at the end of a skidding chain, on cable runs for guying, or holding a snatch block to an anchor strap on a winch setup.
People use clevis and shackle loosely, and many shapes overlap. What matters for safety is whether the piece is rated. A rated shackle or clevis is marked with its working load and made to a known standard. Generic farm-store clevises are often unmarked, and their strength is unknown.
For hitching and general yard use, a galvanized clevis is fine. For anything that will hold a load over people, anchor a rigging system, or be part of a winch pull near the crew, use hardware with a marked working load limit and stay within it.
Browse rated rings, shackles and connectors in rings and other hardware.
Make sure the pin goes all the way through both ears and is secured with its cotter, clip or nut so it cannot work loose under vibration. A pin that is only half seated, or a threaded pin that has backed out, is a common way connections fail.
Load the clevis in line through the bow and pin. Side-loading the ears bends the body and the pin. Do not substitute a bolt for the proper pin; the grade and fit may be wrong.
Size the clevis so the chain or hardware sits fully in the bow without being forced. A tight fit pries the ears apart under load.
If the pin is hard to start, check for a bent ear or burred threads before forcing it.
Look for bent pins, spread ears, cracks, heavy rust and wear at the bow. Galvanizing slows corrosion but does not stop wear. Replace any clevis that has been overloaded or deformed; steel does not go back into shape safely. Keep the working load of the whole assembly within the rating of its weakest piece, and train the crew on rigging hardware per ANSI Z133.
Store spare clevises and pins together in a bin so pins do not get lost and replaced with bolts in a pinch. A labeled bin of rated hardware next to a separate bin of yard hardware keeps the two from getting mixed up on the truck.
When you buy, note the marking on rated hardware and keep the paperwork. Knowing what a clevis is rated for is what lets you use it with confidence.
| Type | Clevis with pin |
|---|---|
| Finish | Galvanized |
| Pin | Removable, secured to stop backing out |
| Use | Connections for chain, cable and hitches |
| Ratings | Use only marked, rated hardware for rigging loads |
Specs are from the manufacturer's published figures where available. Confirm against the product listing before you buy.
The terms overlap. Both are pinned U-shaped connectors. What matters is whether the hardware is marked with a rated working load.
Only if it is marked with a working load limit suitable for the forces involved. Unmarked clevises belong on hitches and general yard work.
Use the correct pin and secure it with its cotter pin, clip or locking nut. Check it during the job.