Heavy Duty Slings for Tree Rigging

Buying guide

Dead-eye slings

A dead-eye sling has one spliced eye and a tail. Pass the tail around the stem and through the eye to choke it, or tie a knot to the rope. They grip stems well and pass easily through crotches. A larger diameter dead-eye spreads load on bark and handles heavier pieces.

Dead-eye slings come in several diameters and lengths. A thicker sling holds blocks for larger removals and is less likely to cut into soft bark. A thinner, shorter one is quicker to set on small limbs and pieces being lowered. Many arborists keep a range so they can pick the right one at the tie-in.

Bull rope and double-head slings

Bull rope rigging slings are made from heavy rigging rope and are built to hang blocks for big removals. Double-head slings have an eye at each end, so you can basket or choke them around a stem and clip both eyes to the block.

The sling holding the block often sees the highest load in the system, so it should be at least as strong as the block and rope. Wrap it on solid wood below the block's attachment point.

Some crews prefer a sling with a protective sleeve where it wraps the trunk to reduce wear. Others use a cambium saver or ring setup to protect the bark. Choose what works for your trees and your rigging style, but keep the rating of the sling in mind first.

Matching sling to job

Choose diameter and length based on the stems you work and the loads you plan to lower. Too short and you cannot wrap the stem; too long and the block hangs low and swings. Many crews carry a few sizes.

Trad slings and loop runners also have their place for lighter rigging and redirects. For heavy-duty rigging and big removals, stronger rope slings with spliced eyes and a large diameter are a safer bet. Choose length so the block hangs close to the stem and the rope runs cleanly.

Double-head rigging slings are popular for hanging blocks on large stems because the two eyes clip together on the block, spreading load evenly. Long double-head slings, such as 25 feet or so, can wrap big trunks with room to spare, which is useful on large removals and crane-assisted jobs.

Inspection

Look for cuts, glazing, abrasion and damaged splices before each use. Replace slings that have been shock loaded heavily or show damage, and keep them away from saw chains and sharp edges. Follow ANSI Z133 and the manufacturer's instructions.

Keep a record of when each heavy sling went into service and any severe shock loads it has taken. That history helps decide when to retire it. Damaged splices, a hardened or glazed section, or core damage are clear signs to take a sling out of service.